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3D printers · Creality Ender

Creality Ender V2

8owners with an opinion
67%of verdicts positive
4/2positive/negative since 2024
5 yrslongest happy owner
1happy after 3+ years

Praised for performance and value; criticized for reliability and ease of use.

What owners wrote

Recommends itOwned 5 years
I do the same. Ender 3 V2 that I paid <$250 for about 5 years ago. It paid for itself on the first print job where I repaired some Samsung stove knobs where replacements were $400 a set. I'm now considering an upgrade and I'll likely just go with the Ender 3 V3 Plus (bigger bed, auto leveling, still an offline printer) and < $450 for cost. It's been a fantastic printer for me. I use Cura, stick with standard settings, use Sun PLA+ for all my prints, and the only thing I really need to do is level the bed sometimes.
Doesn’t like itOwned 0.5 years
I bought a Creality Ender 3 V2 a little over a year ago, spent 6 months printing things and fiddling with it and finally had it with how primitive it is. If you have the time and patience for tinkering, the Voron is great. I built a Voron 2.4 and Voron Trident this year. Both printers are designed with automatic bed leveling as a base feature and I modded them right from the start to have automatic z offset calculation as well with a fancy probe. With these 2 features I have print it and forget it operation 99% of the time with no issues. There have also been some open source multi filament/material projects that you can add to the printers since you have full control of the hardware and software.
Likes it
> I have glued two small neodymium magnets to a 0.2mm fineliner pen This sounds like an extremely simple way to attach a pen to a 3D printer. I'd love to see a picture of it. I own an Ender 3 V2, which is a great little printer. I use it often and am considering a newer Ender because I want a larger print bed. Anywayz, now I'm going to go see if I can easily throw some magnets on the head. Then I might attach those magnets to a pen or pencil.
Doesn’t like it
I stop seeing those issues after starting using Bambulab X1 3d printer, it just works 99 percent of the time. My old ender 3 v2 had those issues due to bed changing its shape during printing(thin metal changing shape in micro level due to temp and mechanical stress with 4 knobs pulling down), not sticking well, not enough fast cooling or cooling effects bed temp profile, way off even with auto level probes. Also open 3d printer with bunch of air flow is a killer for those prints. OP should try Bambulab like enclosed more accurate 3d printer from a local 3d print shop or a hackerspace after locking the design and enclosure iterations.
Likes it
I have an Ender 3 v2. I assembled it, and my first print just worked. Apparently this isn't very common. It wasn't difficult, but I can see places people would run into issues. It was about a month later the problems started. Plastic extruder broke like they all do, and the extruder gear was done. A bed leveling probe is a game changer. A PEI bed plate is great. Those tubing couplers are super fragile. Klipper is nice. Now it just works and I expect it to for a long time. The trouble is that people don't want to spend the time and effort to get there. Me? I like that any replacement part is going to be 20 bucks or less. Everything wears eventually.
Likes it
I agree. I have a Creality Ender 3 V2. I wanted something cheap that I wasn’t going to worry about if it became a paperweight (due to lack of use). As I worked more with it, I upgraded it a ton, putting about as much money into it as it cost (which wasn’t much). In the end, it’s a decent printer for what I want to do with it. I added: * Bed leveler * Flexible build surface * direct drive extruder * second z axis screw drive * octopi Everything except for the octopi was a Creality kit. So it’s not like they don’t know their market is looking to tinker and do upgrades themselves. If you want to make things because the end product is the goal, get something fancier. If you want to know how and why it works, spending a bit more time on the journey part (which might be frustrating), the Creality might be a good fit. It’s not going to have the same user-experience as a Bamboo or Prusa, but for me, that’s okay.
Neutral
the Bambu P1S with AMS is one of the better purchases I've made. I've had an ender3v2 for so long and while it worked ok (and arguably better than many people's experiences with them), I got tired of constantly fiddling with stuff. Now, it just works. It doesn't matter what I throw at it. Made me get into the CAD hobby too. >use Claude to write your parametric OpenSCAD scripts Can you talk a little about it?
Neutral
You've got a few answers from other people now. From my perspective, I'd say that the landscape has changed a bit since I started, at the time, the budget entrypoint was an Ender 3 v2 from Creality. Nowadays, they have better models, and there are plenty of other options out there. I'd still personally recommend something like the (new) Ender 3, or similar, not because it's a great printer, but because the community around it is huge; you'll be able to get lots of help, and there are plenty of mods. Have a poke around Reddit etc and see what the most popular model is these days. After a couple of years I heavily modified the E3v2, to the point nothing but the frame remains, and then I build a Voron v2.4 (350mm). Once I had a printer, I started learning to design/model things, learn how modeling for 3D printing is different to other forms of manufacturing, and then just make things you want/need. 3D printing is still a hobby for me, that's the way I'd like it to stay so I've got no advice on making things for sale etc.
Likes it
OP is using the _exact_ colour scheme I used for my VORON 2.4r2 (350^2). I clicked through and for a moment thought I might be looking at one of my own photos, great taste OP! The Voron community is incredible and the Vorons themselves are incredible, there's so much scope (and precedent) for amazing modifications; i.e. my 2.4 kit came with Afterburner and some lower spec parts, but I built it from the get-go with Stealthburner and umbilical (CAN Bus) with an upgrade from the rubbish, V60 clone it came with to a Phaetus Dragon HF and a bunch of other modifications and upgrades. It took me about two-month's worth of evenings, taking my time to build it (much of the reason for choosing it was that I enjoy building things). Before that, I spent about a month upgrading my Ender 3 v2 so it could print ABS for all of the parts the Voron would need and building an enclosure out of IKEA tables, it was a pretty impressive bed-slinger, running Klipper by the time I was done, putting the stock E3v2 to shame. It still sits beside the Voron for emergencies, but it hasn't printed anything in quite a while now. Start printing with a properly tuned Voron, at speed, for the first time though, after having spent all that time building it, and you'll be grinning ear to ear.